The sounds of the Sounds

March 26

Cowshed Bay Campsite to Camp Bay Campsite

KM 1741

Distance: 24km 

Elevation: ascent 1057m, descent 1015m

Steps: 39,700

Time: 8:30am - 4:00pm

We heard quite the cacophany of sounds from our tent last night. It started with the roaring of testerone-fuelled male deer bellowing out their challenges to other males, and their suitability for mating, from the surrounding valleys (this is known as 'the roar' in NZ). In the fading light these were joined by the haunting calls of ruru. As if to compete with them the local weka started up their screeching. And finally, at various times during the night, the possums let out their blood-curdling screams. Despite this, we both slept relatively well.

That should have meant an early start, but we got chatting with other campers over our coffee and muesli and didn't get away till 8:30. Despite the Queen Charlotte Track (QCT) being an easier section an easier section we still faced nearly 1000m elevation gain. 

The real story of the QCT, however, is the scenery. The Marlborough Sounds are a drowned river valley system so there are plenty of islands, headlands and peninsulas jutting out into the deep blue water. The hills are largely cloaked in regenerating forest. 

The regenerating forest also allows for a good variety of funghi. This is one of the more spectacular specimens we saw today. Often, this type of mushroom, with grows partway up tree trunks, is striated in different colours of brown. This is the first time we have seen one entirely white.

It's also been quite some time, as in not on the South Island, since we last saw supple jack - a vine that grows in lowland, warm rainforests here. Thanks to Richard for teaching Eliza that you can break off the tip - as long as you want, before it has gotten too woody - and eat this as a snack. It tastes somewhat reminiscent of asparagus, and thanks to Eliza's father, she loves asparagus. Yum! 

We also passed more examples of cool geology, often covered in moss and lichen. Interesting that at times the cliff faces along the track are broken at odd angles; other times in flat stratigraphy like pancakes; other times just a sheer solid face.

Continuing the theme of the sounds from this morning, throughout the day our ears were filled with sounds - of wind rushing through the wind-tunnel-like track (created by the closely overgrown trees); kereru being startled and flapping away; goats and weka crashing away through the underbrush; seabirds calling; human voices floating up from resorts and boats.

Camp Bay Campsite is much the same as the previous campsites, with a basic shelter for cooking, getting out of the weather, and chatting with people.

It also seems like every campsite comes with a resident weka. So far they've been well behaved but we still don't trust them enough to leave our food and shiny things out in the open.

The only disappointment of the day? The cafe/bar a 5 min walk from camp was closed for a private booking :-(
Tomorrow we head to Furneaux Lodge for some luxury, if they have any rooms left. Otherwise it'll be camping again. This will be our last full day on the South Island section of trail (!); we've already arranged and paid for a boat to Picton on Monday afternoon.