What's the opposite of frustrated?

23 April

Mangatepopo Hut to Tongariro Holiday Park

KM 1112.6

Distance: 26.9km

Elevation: ascent 829m; descent 1346m

Steps: 43,600

Time: 8:00am - 3:20pm

The pent up frustration from losing 1.5 potential walking days to bad weather was erased today by having near ideal conditions for another glamour section of Te Araroa, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Cited as one of the world's best day walks by our shuttle driver 'Dutchy' this was, unbelievably, the first time either of us had attempted it. This view is near the start of the Crossing and shows Mt Ngāuruhoe in the background. As you can see, stunning conditions. 

We were also privileged to see the first dusting of snow for the year on Mt Ruapehu. There was also a dusting of snow on both of the other mountains, Ngāuruhoe and Tongariro.

We even got to see home - Maunga Taranaki peeking up from the north west in the distance!

When we were dropped off at the start of the track at Mangatepopo car park (we had walked there from Whakapapa two days earlier) the temperature was in the low single digits so we quickly joined the queue walking the track. Yes, queue. With this kind of reputation the track is VERY popular, and several shuttle buses arrived in the short time we were organising ourselves in the carpark. An indication of the popularity of the track is the quality of the walking surface, a substantial upgrade from 99% of the rest of Te Araroa. Plastic mesh on timber and elevated slightly above the ground.

Tongariro National Park was the fourth national park established in the world, and first in New Zealand. It's part of the wider Taupo Volcanic Zone and as such is an active volcanic landscape. The Crossing takes in a suite of breathtaking features which are the result of lava, lahar and pyroclastic flows, eruptions and active geothermal vents. Red Crater is possibly the most dramatic example of this. 

You can see the track running down along the right edge of the Red Crater, with Ngāuruhoe looming in the background.

Red Crater is the highest point at 1886m, and was also the coldest point for us today. A brisk breeze zipping over the crater dropped the temperature a few more degrees; in fact on the walk up we had to tread carefully across icy patches which still lay in shadow. We also saw ice crystals bursting through the soil.

The descent from Red Crater is down gravelly sand which takes some concentration to avoid falling over. Both of us slid on unexpected small rocks a few times. Vaughan vigorously denies actually falling onto his butt, he was merely testing the soil to feel if it was warm from the geothermal activity. (It was.)

The spectacular sights didn't stop there as the track leads on to Blue Lake, beautiful to look at but geothermally active and therefore swimming is not allowed. (Not shown: a stong sulfur smell that permeated the entire area.)

Once out of these craters and heading down the final slope the wider landscape opens up. Lake Rotoaira in the foreground, then Lake Taupo the much larger lake in the background, with Waikato beckoning from beyond. 

 

The final two hours were in the forest and out of the wind, although we did have to "hurry" (just not sit and stop) through a potential lahar area.

One thing we did not do well today was choose our rest stops. Both lunch and an afternoon "packs-down" break we took at some toilets (there are toilets approximately every hour along the track. Did we mention this is a very popular track? So it's good to have set places for people to "go", to save the environment from being polluted. Also, the majority of the track is in open landscape, so there wouldn't be much privacy if you did just need to pop a squat.) Both times, just a few minutes further along the track was a much better rest area, or a stop with great views.

After a 7km road walk we arrived at Tongariro Holiday Park feeling particularly exhausted. Most likely because it's the first day for a week that we've carried full packs, and they have 5 days worth of food. But we're pleased with our effort and really happy to be walking again, and that we have some good walking sections ahead so we can get some more kms under our belts. Next is the 42 Traverse (42km) followed by Pureora Forest (104km) which should take us about 6-7 days. The weather forecast looks in our favour after tomorrow's occassional showers.