Karst-aways

30 April

Ngaherenga Campsite to Mangaokewa North Rd farm shelter 

KM 908

Distance: 37.6km

Elevation: ascent 438m; descent 841m

Steps: 50,200

Time: 7:20am - 3:20pm

We started today at the foot of one of the Central North Island's many volcanic bumps, and finished the day in the karst limestone landscape of the Waitomo district. One landform a result of molten rock thrown up from beneath the earth, the other a mass of calcified dead organisms thrust up from the ocean's depths. 

The night was cold again but the day started with the very autumnal view above. Fog filled the lower part of the valley and the autumn colours were on display again. Our weather apps said it was 4 C overnight but we walked past patches of frost which suggested it was a few degrees cooler. The benefit of having a cold start to the walk was that we started briskly, to try and warm up a little. 

The long distance walk today was necessitated by the fact that there is nothing but farmland in between. No township, campsites or public forests to set up camp, so we had to push through to this basic shelter and camping plot on a private farm established especially for TA walkers. The next nearest township, Te Kuiti, is 18 further kilometers so this campsite breaks up that stretch.

It seems strange to say this, but thankfully it was all road walking. It meant that we breezed through the 36km in 8 hours, including breaks, at a pace of over 5km/h.

To us this hill looked like a hilltop fort with crumbling walls.

Despite the fact that it was all road walking, it was a very pleasant day. The temperature did improve, letting us take off layers, but never got so hot that it was unpleasant. There were also plenty of native trees along the roadsides, and plenty of both native birds (like miromiro and piwakawaka) and introduced birds (like pheasant) to catch our eyes and keep us interested. The sky itself was that shade of blue that only happens in late summer and autumn; with picture-perfect fluffy clouds that we had fun developing into animals and stories.

Aside from a short stretch in the early morning along a state highway, all of the walking was on back roads, most of them unsealed, with very little traffic. So that also helped make the day's walk more pleasant. We even felt comfortable pulling the tent out to dry it more fully at our lunch stop, which was really just a grassy part on the side of the road. But given that only one vehicle passed us in the half hour or more we sat there, shoes off and feet enjoying the sun, this was definitely a good call.

It was late in the day that we really realised we were in karst territory, when suddenly the hillsides showed their faces a little more dramatically. We came across this wee waterfall, but with a boulder sitting right at the top, just waiting for the next big flood to come.

Speaking of big floods, it will take a massive flood for this stream to clear out all of these boulders and parts of hillside that seem to have come down from the neighbouring cliffs.

Despite the eye-catching geography, we were happy to see the purpose-built shelter in the mid-afternoon, meaning we would have time and space to rinse out some clothes and casually set up our tent before the sun went down.

It's got some pretty murals on the sides of it, too!

Our tent is set up, dinner cooking, and having a chat with Hamish, who has been walking at more or less the same daily pace as us for the last week or so. He is planning on a zero day or two in Te Kuiti, while we are only planning the one night; but we are sure to see him further up the trail.