Roaming the country

21 May

Paihia to Kerikeri

KM 226

Distance: 24.5

Elevation: ascent 612m; descent 578m

Steps: 36,000

Time: 8:30am - 2:30pm

Ony 226 km to go and we have scheduled 9 days to complete them, assuming the weather holds out and our bodies hold together. It really feels like we're counting down now. [As an aside, we are both starting to be ready for the end of the trail. We're looking forward to having a fixed abode, with all of the conveniences that brings; and our feet are very much looking forward to only carrying our body weight. It almost feels disloyal to say or even think this way, and we even hesitated to bring these feelings up with each other, when we started to feel them in this past week.]

The mood of the Bay of Islands this morning was in complete contrast to yesterday afternoon. Breathless weather left the sun's reflection unbroken, the sea surface virtually undisturbed. We could see ripples on the surface close to shore caused by big fish chasing little fish. 

We think it's quite significant that New Zealand's long pathway passes through this deeply historic area. Russell, further south, nicknamed the 'hellhole of the Pacific' in the mid 1800's when it was occupied by whalers, sealers and sailors; and Waitangi where the foundations of our bi-cultural nation were laid. It means that TA walkers from overseas have an opportunity to experience an important part of our heritage. 

Leaving Waitangi we soon entered a pine forest along a track shared with mountain bikers. We met a few friendly ones and chatted about our adventure. The track followed a forestry access road which made for easy walking with its nicely graded surface and pine needles underfoot.

We found an abundance of mushrooms beneath the pines, including these which released a cloud of spores when touched.

Speaking of foundations, this section of track includes a monument recognising the opening of the first section of Te Araroa. It was opened by a tramper who also happened to be the Prime Minister at the time. The title of today's blog is taken from the poem enscribed on the plaque.

Our afternoon carried on the trail traditions of Northland: we walk out of a forest section into an urban section and stop at the first cafe for coffee and a treat. It was no different entering Kerikeri, except that it's a Saturday and most cafes were closing as we arrived. We did manage to catch one cafe before it closed, and enjoyed some absolutely decadent desserts from the cabinet.

Here's a photo just because we think it looks interesting. Fractal patterns maybe?

We spoke with one biker who showed interest in our long walk. When we explained that we would be walking a certain track in a couple days time he advised us that it's a challenging track with lots of roots and can be slippery. We do appreciate advice from locals, but at the same time if he only knew what we've come through in 5 months to get to this point . . .

We're staying tonight at the Kerikeri Holiday Park, where we've stayed at least twice before - although according to their computer system it's been nearly 7 years since we last stayed! This meant we could walk into town to a sports bar to watch the Warriors (lose, unfortunately, again. <sigh>), and then to a burger shop, Burger Fiasco, that was <chef's kiss>. And then a final stop at the Countdown for resupply for the next five days, which should take us through to Kaitaia, and our last resupply of Te Araroa! (!!)