Stop it, Northland!

18 May

Ngunguru to Whananaki

KM 327

Distance: 25km

Elevation: ascent 585m; descent 583m

Steps: 38,000

Time: 8:20am - 2:30pm

Six days we've been walking the Northland coastline, at times in bright summery sun, others in complete cloud cover, and today in steady drizzle. The scenery has delivered spectacularly every single time. We passed through some seaside towns, settlements really, which are incredibly popular holiday destinations over summer but we got to experience them with only locals around. It's like we had these stunning locations all to ourselves. Almost literally: I don't remember seeing anyone on these beaches below. (Maybe the weather had something to do with it.)

It was a stop-start affair leaving Ngunguru this morning. We actually escaped our accommodation a little after 7 am but we stopped at a cafe for a proper cup of coffee from a proper coffee shop, and resupplied at the nextdoor foodmart. We also had a long chat with a local who was very interested in the trail, our gear, and how much weight we had lost - perhaps another future TA walker? An hour later we were under way proper along the Ngunguru Old Coach Trail pathway. 

This is a recent addition to Te Araroa; a few years ago the TA used to take a route along the coastal cliffs to the east but a private property owner rescinded permission for the Trail to pass through their property and that was the end of that route. We had a pleasant walk nevertheless, and most importantly not along a busy road.

It was after this that we were returned to the coastline we've fallen in love with for the last week. Black, rocky cliffs; white and golden sand; and gradations of blues to the horizon.

A plant that grows particularly well in this tropical climate is the hibiscus (pretty sure it's a hibiscus) with its dramatic and flamboyant flowers.

Towards the end of today's section we reached the longest wooden footbridge in the Southern Hemisphere which leads to Whananaki North and our stopping point for today. 

Not only is the footbridge popular with local and visiting humans, it's a favourite resting place for avian locals. Here, two little pied shags are resting before their next fishing trip. They were reluctant to leave the railing and only did so, grumpily, when we were within a few metres. 

Another short day by time walking, but we covered a satisfactory distance. We need to average this distance every day to finish by our deadline.

As mentioned we walked in light, and occassionally heavy, rain most of today and the weather forecast has more of the same tomorrow and possibly the following day. We really don't want to lose a day to rain at this stage, but at a point common sense needs to prevail over risk-taking for the sake of deadlines. We'll see how conditions are in the morning and decide then. We are currently well set up in spacious accommodation at Whananaki Holiday Park, so staying here an extra day would not exactly be a hardship.

On the injury front Vaughan has developed a blister in the centre of his left sole. Today a pad of sheeps' wool helped minimise the discomfort and hopefully it will repair in good time. It's likely a result of having wet feet for two days now.

One final thing, Eliza had finished her latest knitting project: tuatara arm warmers. As you can see they are versatile. They can be full length up to the elbow or scrunched up like leg warmers. The cuffs can be extended for extra finger warmth, or folded for tasks requiring dexterity. The palms have extra tough, grippy surfaces for riding dragons. (Ok, that bit is made up.) Bet they will get lots of use in cooler weather, or even some of the in-between weather we are sure to face in these last couple of weeks.