Treating ourselves.

13 May

Pakiri Beach to Mangawhai Heads

KM 450.5

Distance: 26.6 km

Elevation: ascent 302m; descent 278m

Steps: 37,700

Time: 9:50am - 4:40pm

What an absolutely stunning section we've just walked! Another highlight of the TA!

Given today's stretch was a slightly shorter distance and with the enticement of a proper cup of coffee from a proper coffee cart which opened at 9am we allowed ourselves the decadance of a sleep in and a morning shower. The gloss was removed a little when we discovered that the coffee cart was not open (they only staff it sporadically, since it's the off season). Bearing that disappointment bravely we walked off the campsite and onto the beach which we were to walk for much of the day. We highly recommend Pakiri Beach Holiday Camp.

First off was one of the most pleasant stream crossings we've done to date: crystal clear, lukewarm and only calf deep. There were plenty of birds gathered around this stream including dotterels, oystercatchers, gulls, paradise shelducks, white-fronted and caspian terns, and pipits. But no fairy terns; however it was early in the day and lots of likely habitat ahead of us.

With so few people and vehicles on the beach the surface was nearly pristine and we could make out plenty of critter footprints in the sand.

We also saw one of the birds likely responsible for some of these footprints, a New Zealand dotterel or turituriwhatu.

We made good time over the ten kilometers of flat beach. We reached Te Arai Point which is the northern terminus of Pakiri Beach, and an out-of-place volcanic outcrop. The photo below is where we left Pakiri Beach and is also a particularly good surf break known as Forestry. Still no fairy terns to be seen. 

We scaled the lofty heights of Te Arai Point, 80m, and walked into THIS view!

Still no fairy terns. But they hang out around small streams, the shallow waves next to the beach and in estuaries. There was more of that to come so we were still hopeful. After a 2.5km on Mangawhai Beach (the placename means stream of the stingrays) we entered an area of exotic forestry and also passed from the Auckland region (Rodney) into Northland (Kaipara).

We treated ourselves to ice cream in Mangawhai before the final 6km stretch to Mangawhai Heads. In between the two is an elevated boardwalk above an estuary and through a mangrove forest.  

It continued to be a day of treating ourselves, we booked a studio room at a more upscale accommodation. As soon as we arrived we showered for the second time today, a rare treat. Dinner was at Gringa, a Mexican restaurant.

Unfortunately we didn't see any fairy terns today. Given how rare they are it wasn't a big surprise. It just means we'll have to return one day to try again. There's a slim chance we might see one in the next day or two, and if we do you'll be the first to know!

*Recommendation: Eliza recently came across a Spotify playlist called Maori Shed Party. It's got some classic feel good songs that feel like the backdrop to a classic NZ party. Check it out. She heard about it thanks to this article, which is worth reading even if you never listen to the playlist.