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26 April Taumaranui to Bennett Rd Campsite KM 1022.3 Distance: 25.7km Elevation: ascent 404m; descent 370m Steps: 38,700 Time: 9:00am - 3:05pm We were woken up early, at 5:30, by the air raid siren calling the volunteer fire fighters to the station. Which is directly across the road from the Alexander Motel where we stayed. (View from our motel room balcony) Despite this wakeup call, knowing we had a relatively short day ahead of us, we were in no hurry to get going. So we dawdled getting up and ready, before heading back to the grocery store to pick up a few things we forgot to buy last night, and then to have a nice sit-down cooked breakfast at the bakery. By the time we made it back to the hotel (which was very nice and recommended for anyone staying in Taumaranui) and finished packing, it was one of the latest starts we've had in quite some time. Despite that, the low cloud and fog remained for nearly the first whole hour of our walk. We were fairly well bundled up ...

25 April Unnamed campsite to Taumaranui KM 1048 Distance: 34.2km Elevation: ascent 612m; descent 973m Steps: 46,700 Time: 7:40am - 3:20pm Normally the prospect of 30km of road walking would leave us uninspired and with a resolve to just push on through and accept the deafening engine noise and fumes. Today we had a refreshingly different experience. Before the account of today starts we should mention that last night, after a long walk under short daylight hours, sunset was 5:44pm, we were in bed in the tent by 6:30 and asleep by 7:30. We've concluded that 'trampers midnight' has shifted shifted from 8pm to 7pm with the change in daylight savings. Walking the final 8km of the 42 Traverse and into Owhango took us through more verdant forest and across the Tongariro River.    A few kilometers from Owhango we turned right onto a gravel rural road and walked into Autumn! The next 18km of road was stunning as we passed rolling hills and farm paddocks deck...

24 April Tongariro Holiday Park to unnamed campsite KM 1082.2 Distance: 32.4km Elevation: ascent 822m; descent 963m Steps: 50,100 Time: 7:00am - 4:00pm While it rained overnight, and got quite chilly, we were happily kept warm and dry in our cabin at the Tongariro Holiday Park. At breakfast this morning we met another NoBo'er, Hamish, having breakfast, and we also met him at the end of the day as he passed up our campsite (we'd taken nearly the only good spot in what is really just a turn-out in the gravel road we are following). After a very short road section this morning, we walked through a historical monument of Te Porere Redoubt. We had visited this site a few years ago, and were happy to come back - it is very impressive and deserves more recognition than it seems to have gotten. It was the site of a pretty major battle between British forces and Māori in what is termed the Land Wars. This is Mahakura, one of two pa sites at this monument - fortified, entrenc...

23 April Mangatepopo Hut to Tongariro Holiday Park KM 1112.6 Distance: 26.9km Elevation: ascent 829m; descent 1346m Steps: 43,600 Time: 8:00am - 3:20pm The pent up frustration from losing 1.5 potential walking days to bad weather was erased today by having near ideal conditions for another glamour section of Te Araroa, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Cited as one of the world's best day walks by our shuttle driver 'Dutchy' this was, unbelievably, the first time either of us had attempted it. This view is near the start of the Crossing and shows Mt Ngāuruhoe in the background. As you can see, stunning conditions.  We were also privileged to see the first dusting of snow for the year on Mt Ruapehu. There was also a dusting of snow on both of the other mountains, Ngāuruhoe and Tongariro. We even got to see home - Maunga Taranaki peeking up from the north west in the distance! When we were dropped off at the start of the track at Mangatepopo c...

21 April Whakapapa Village to Mangatepopo Hut KM 1138.5 Distance: 9.5km Elevation: ascent: 249m; descent 181m Steps: 15,000 Time: 7:00am - 9:30pm This morning's forecast hinted that completing the Tongariro Crossing today was not guaranteed. And that's what eventuated after two-and-a-half hours walking in steady light (and sometimes heavy) rain and increasing wind speeds.  On reaching Mangatepopo Hut we were starting to get wet beneath our rain gear, and while we weren't neccessarily cold we weren't particularly warm. The hut is situated at 1200m elevation, but the Crossing reaches a height of 1847m at Red Crater and the predicted temperatures were 3-5C, with wind speed increasing to around 50 km/h and gusting to 70km/h.  The hut was occupied by a warden and we sought her advice on whether we should continue. Her advice was, in short, that completing the Crossing was possible in these conditions but wouldn't be enjoyable and we wouldn't get any views...

20 April National Park Village to Whakapapa Village KM 1146.5 Distance: 21.1km Elevation: ascent: 569m; descent 252m Steps: 31,000 Time: 8:15am - 1:50pm Back on the trail!  After the delays, and rest days, both intentional and unintentional, we were glad to be back in our hiking shoes and on the trail. Ok, so maybe our feet were not 100% glad with this, but the rest of us was! Especially our legs and backs, since they were not carrying the full load they are used to. We are able to "slack-pack" this section thanks to Brian and Bessie who are ferrying us to and from start- and end-points for this three days we are staying together in National Park. Slack-packing refers to carrying a much smaller or lighter pack because you don't have to carry all the things you normally do; sleeping bags, tent, sleeping mats, extra clothes, etc. Additionally, we only have to carry food for one day at a time which means that our packs are light as can be! We re-joine...

16 April Whiowhio Hut to Whiowhio Hut  KM 1480 Distance: 4km of trail Elevation: flat Steps: 18,000 Time: 7:30am - 8:30am We took the opportunity this morning to finish those last few kilometers that we had missed between our two stints in Palmerston North so far. This was all along the beautiful Manawatu River Pathway.  That being done, we immediately found a cafe and had sweet treats to supplement the leftover chicken fried rice that was both Vaughan's midnight snack and our breakfast. It was delicious.  We then walked to a grocery store to pick up food for the next section of the trail, which should see us supplied through to Taumaranui, and then back to our accommodation (hence the step count).  Later, after good chats with both sets of parents as well as lunch and a nap, we biked 8km across town to family to deliver a Covid isolation care package. This earned us another ice cream bar each from a local dairy. We will have no problems putting weight ba...